This mini but durable hand plane delivers clean cuts for sculpting wood and modeling or for other types of light woodworking.
The Stanley jack plane is made from iron castings, weighs in at a beefy 6-plus pounds, and comes with two handles for controlled planing. Its low-angle, one-piece base helps it glide over rough wood. Wood craftsmen who fashion projects from raw lumber will find this hand plane a great option. Designed for the dedicated craftsman, the WoodRiver Bench Plane is a high-quality tool that can smooth both softwoods and hardwoods with ease.
Manufactured from high-quality steel and polished wood, the WoodRiver hand plane proves a good choice for shaving away high spots on large wood projects such as cedar chests or toy boxes, making it well suited for the woodworking artisan who takes pride in creating custom projects.
Another plane from the manufacturer whose name is synonymous with quality hand tools, the Stanley Block Plane is designed for use with one or two hands. The degree angle of its cutter blade is ideal for shaving across the wood grain, and a block plane is the plane of choice for smoothing the rough ends of boards. The plane is made from epoxy-coated cast iron to resist rusting. If you need to straighten out curved boards, check out the Grizzly Industrial inch Smoothing Plane that falls into the jointer plane category.
Sometimes called a 7 plane or a leveling plane, this hand tool creates an even surface on wood so you can join two pieces of wood together without gaps.
This jointer plane weighs 8. It features smooth-to-the-touch rosewood handles, a fully adjustable blade, and a durable cast-iron base. Considered a bench plane, the GreatNeck features a 2-inch-wide tempered cutting blade for quick wood removal and dual polished wood handles for superior control.
But you can still find some good deals. These Stanley Bailey planes range in size from a baby-sized 1 plane all the way up to a monster 8 jointer plane, with some fractional sizes in-between. That refers to the version. Opinions vary, but most people feel that the quality peaked between type 11 and 13, and that the quality sharply declined during and after World War 2.
You can visit my type study page to see how old your Stanley Bailey handplane is. Bed Rock handplanes were a superior line of bench planes manufactured by Stanley, based on patents from some other ingenious people. The Bed Rock planes get their name from the solid and smooth machined casting that the frog sits on, which leads to less chance of vibration while handplaning a board. In my opinion this is the most important feature of the plane. This style of plane also features an easier mechanism for opening and closing the mouth; using adjustment screws on the rear of the frog, without having to unscrew the frog, like you do on the Bailey style planes.
The price of vintage Bed Rock style planes are astronomical compared to the Bailey style planes, due to the superior design and the comparative scarcity.
However, a Bailey style plane will work great for you. There are a couple higher-end modern manufacturers who produce Bed Rock style planes. The price tag is high, but not a lot higher than vintage Bed Rock planes. Transitional hand planes are a cross between a wooden handplane and a metal handplane. They have metal parts with a wooden body. You may think that they were the evolutionary link between wooden bench planes and metal bench planes, but they were actually released after the initial metal bench planes.
From what I understand, it was to appeal to people who liked the adjustability of metal planes, but missed the wooden soles and bodies of the all-wooden bench planes. It could also have been a way for tool companies to offer a more affordable line of bench planes. Sometimes I find transitional planes challenging to get tuned up to the level required for a smoothing plane or jointer plane, but the risk of trying them out is low because the price is so low.
A less common vintage bench plane design that originated from Stanley, is the low angle bevel up handplanes. The solid iron simply sits firmly against the low angle plane casting.
This style of plane has gotten some traction in recent years as several modern plane makers have tried to resurrect the style. It has some nice flexibility because, depending on how you sharpen the iron, it can be used as a low angle plane for cutting end grain, as a normal bench plane for standard handplaning, or as a high angle plane for planing difficult figured wood grain.
But buying two extra blades can get expensive. The vintage bevel up planes have some design flaws, and are also so rare that the prices are way too high. So I tend to prefer the modern versions from a couple different plane makers. These incredibly well-made metal planes were usually made to very high tolerances. You can opt for a nice infill plane, like the one shown above, that lacks a brand name, which further lowers the price. As I mentioned earlier, a Jack Plane or a fore plane or a scrub plane is the first handplane to touch your rough-sawn board.
I prefer a larger Jack plane or an even larger Fore plane over a dedicated scrub plane. Precise features that may be desirable on a smoothing plane or a jointer plane, like a tight mouth for example, are usually not desirable on a jack plane.
See above how the plane has such a wide open mouth to allow rough wood shavings to exit? In fact, some of my favorite jack planes are the most affordable planes on the market. The antique wooden plane pictured above is my favorite jack plane.
Click here to see similar wooden jack planes on Ebay. Another fantastic candidate for scrubbing are vintage transitional jack planes pictured above , which I mentioned earlier. Just avoid buying a plane that has obvious major problems, like cracked metal parts, major cracks in the wooden body, badly broken totes or knobs, or missing parts, because buying replacement parts are often more expensive than buying the plane itself.
Here are some of the models that I own and enjoy using:. And if you combine them with a good wooden smoothing plane and a good wooden jointer plane, you can keep your bench plane budget under a hundred dollars. These Jack planes are the most common planes available, and were manufactured in the millions. Stanley was the largest producers of metal bench planes, and this was their most common size. This is how it can work: When you buy a metal number 5 jack plane, also buy a second iron.
Sharpen one iron with an extreme camber for scrubbing a rough board:. And then sharpen the other blade with a barely noticeable camber for smoothing and jointing:. A jack plane can actually work perfectly as a jointer plane, as long as your board is less than three times the length of the jack plane.
Many furniture parts are under this length, so a jack plane is quite flexible as a jointer plane. And the jack plane can work somewhat well as a smoothing plane.
However, it would be difficult to get into small areas of difficult grain to smooth it, with such a long plane. When you switch from the smoother or jointer setup to a scrubbing setup, you would just switch out the blade and adjust the frog mechanism to open the mouth to allow the big wood shavings to exit. A few companies make these low angle jack planes pictured above and below.
As you can see, the design is different than the normal bench planes; the bevel of the iron faces upward rather than downward. I touched on this earlier.
Also, the bed of the plane sits at a lower angle. The cool thing about this type of plane is that it can be used in multiple configurations in addition to the main use as a low angle plane. The iron comes sharpened from the factory at a 25 degree angle. Add that to the 12 degree milled bed, for an effective low angle of 37 degrees.
This is great for general purpose handplaning. And if you planned on handplaning figured wood, you could buy a third iron and sharpen it at around 50 degrees, which would give you an effective high angle of around 62 degrees. These toothed irons are especially designed for flattening difficult, figured wood. The mouths on these planes are easily adjusted so you can open and close it for different planing purposes: a tight mouth for smoothing and a wide mouth for scrubbing.
I also find that this type of handplane works great with a shooting board. I personally own two different number 62 low angle jack planes both inspired by the vintage Stanley No.
Both of these planes work great. The Lie-Nielsen No. I would recommend against buying the vintage No. Stanley has also made a reproduction Stanley Sweetheart No. If your budget allows for buying three separate bench planes jack plane, jointer plane, and smoothing plane , then just buy an affordable vintage transitional jack plane or a wooden jack plane, and spend more money on a nice smoothing plane and jointer plane. That may not be as bad as it sounds, considering that most pilots fly with two seats more than they need anyway.
Will you rent a tiedown or keep the airplane in a hangar? Will you insure the aircraft and, if so, will you buy straight liability or full-hull coverage?
Will you hire out maintenance or attempt to do most of the periodic work yourself? Are you ready to take on the sometimes expensive and time-consuming task of maintaining an airplane as opposed to merely renting aircraft by the hour with no further obligations? The next question is, what model should your entry-level machine be? Do you really need four seats or will two suffice?
Much of the time, pilots will zero in on a particular model or concentrate on two or three possible candidates. Even if the goal is to become an owner at an absolute minimum cost, there are more choices than you might imagine. In my case, as a new private pilot, I rented Piper Cherokees for a few hours, but quickly decided I needed my own airplane. That was the first of five airplanes I was to own, culminating in my current Turbo Mooney.
One saving grace is that most of the models above are extremely simple machines with basic, easily maintained systems. Choosing between these two really comes down to your preference and strength. Recommended models No. Veritas no. Save Pin FB More. Quick and easy chamfers. Use a low-angle block plane to chamfer the bottoms of table legs to prevent grain splintering. Perfect flush trim. Clean up uneven drawer sides with a few swipes of a block plane.
Reverse the cutting direction if you tear out the wood.
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